Trees and Shrubs
Selected for Success
We carry a wide selection of plant material selected just for our growing zone. With the improvement in breeding techniques today’s plant material blooms longer, in some cases, re-blooms and is more disease and pest resistant.
Evergreen and flowering shrubs are the backbone of any landscape. Whether it is in a foundation planting or a garden border there is a wide range of plant material that can add depth and dimension to your garden. There are two types of shrubs: deciduous and evergreen. Deciduous shrubs such as Lilac, Forsythia and certain types of Azaleas will flower, foliate and then lose their foliage in the fall season.
Flowering evergreen shrubs like Rhododendron and Andromeda will feature evergreen foliage all year round, flower and then flush with new growth by summer. The benefit of flowering evergreens is that you benefit from the best of both worlds – beautiful flowers in spring and evergreen foliage for privacy and structure to support the overall landscape plan.
Evergreens, or conifers, are generally needled and retain their needles year round. Evergreens can function as a unifying element in the landscape, or in some cases, a focal point. These focal points, or specimens, can add real drama to a landscape.
Watering and Planting
When planting a tree or shrub that comes in a container, dig a hole about twice as wide as the container, & twice as deep if you can. Water the hole so water seeps into the surrounding area. Amend the soil with compost, peat moss, or cow manure, adding about a third of the volume of the total soil, blending it together. You do not want the hole filled completely with amendments, as the roots will literally ‘hit a wall’ as they come in contact with the native soil, & likely stop growing outwards. Gently remove the plant from the container & place in the hole, making sure there is not an air pocket at the bottom, & the roots are fully in contact with the soil. Fill so that the soil level is the same as the level in the container.
For B & B (balled & burlapped) Trees: You do not need to completely remove any burlap or wire basket, just untie any rope or burlap from around the trunk. Plant so that the top of the root ball is very slightly above grade. Adjust tree with a shovel—do not pull on the trunk as you do not want to break up the roots. After tamping down soil, mulch over the roots about 2-3” thick, but keep the mulch a few inches away from the trunk.
Watering of newly installed trees, shrubs, perennials, & lawns is very important. Lack of enough water during the first season is usually the cause of plant death. Following the instructions noted here will greatly reduce the chances of losing your new plantings through transpiration. (moisture loss).
New Shrub & Tree Plantings
After digging the hole, fill with water & let it drain out. After planting, thoroughly water the area, enough to soak though to the base of the root system. Soaking to the bottom of the roots obviously depends on the depth of the hole, but generally figure to leave a hose running on a trickle or low flow for at least a half hour to an hour. (Try watering for five minutes, & then test where you’ve watered. It doesn’t get deep in a short amount of time!) Even a one hour rainfall is not enough to soak a new root system.
Water deeply 2 to 3 times/week for the first two weeks. Do not over water either. Roots need to drain in between waterings so they don’t drown & rot.
After a couple of weeks, deeply water once a week for a few months, (depending upon rainfall), as the plants acclimate to their new home. Make sure to compensate for dry spells! New plantings will need special watering care for about a year until they are established. Avoid misting foliage in the hot sun to minimize sun scorch.
General Watering Instructions
Once established, most trees, shrubs, & perennials that are hardy in this area will require little additional hand watering. During long dry spells, soak plants thoroughly once per week. Curling rhododendron leaves are one indicator of drought conditions. Maintaining a thick layer of mulch around plants will greatly reduce the effects of drought conditions (& harsh winters)! We also recommend an anti-transpirant spray to keep in moisture & reduce stress in winter for broadleaved evergreens.
Newly Seeded Lawns
Seed should be kept moist for 5 to 6 weeks to allow for proper germination of all seeds. Usually new lawns must be watered each day (unless rainfall provides adequate moisture). It is important that the soil be kept moist. This often requires 1 to 2 waterings per day for about 20 to 30 minutes each time. Cut newly seeded lawns when the grass reaches 3" to 3 1/2"in height. It is best to stay off newly seeded areas until they are thick & well established. If some areas need reseeding, lightly rake off salt hay & apply new seed.
General Lawn Watering Instructions
During the growing season your lawn needs 1"to 1 1/2"of water per week. This can usually be achieved with one thorough watering per week. Keep in mind that a 2"rainfall may substitute for your watering. Due to evaporation, one good watering is better than several light mistings. It is best to water during the morning hours. Nighttime watering may result in fungus growth.
lf you notice any problems or have any questions, please give us a call, or come in and talk with any of our qualified staff.